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Bacterial Cultures: Unraveling Mongolia's Dairy Heritage

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Chapter 1: The Mystery of Dairying

Dairying represents a fascinating chapter in human history. In 2017, anthropologist Christina Warinner and her team ventured into Mongolia's northern steppes to investigate local herding practices. During their journey, they encountered Dalaimyagmar, a herder who showcased her methods for creating traditional yogurt and cheese.

In spring, as livestock give birth and produce ample milk, Mongolians shift from a meat-based diet to one rich in dairy. Each year, Dalaimyagmar revives a portion of last season's yogurt, known as khöröngo, by mixing it with fresh milk over several days. This "starter culture" is essential for producing dairy products throughout the summer.

As the anthropologists navigated back to camp, graduate student Björn Reichhardt made a profound observation: khöröngo also means wealth or inheritance in Mongolian. Given that dairy products constitute a critical part of the diet—over 70 varieties are produced and consumed—this dual meaning of khöröngo was not unexpected.

However, there’s an ironic twist. Many herders are unaware that their khöröngo is a treasure trove of beneficial microbes. This ignorance poses a risk, as these microbes contribute significantly to the health, dietary habits, and unique flavors of Mongolian cuisine. The encroachment of Western industrial practices threatens to erase this microbial heritage.

The video "The Sci Guys: Science at Home - SE2 - EP3: Homemade Petri Dish" illustrates how to create your own petri dish at home, shedding light on the importance of microbial cultures in food science.

Warinner’s Heirloom Microbes project aims to educate Mongolians about the significance of their microbial resources while investigating how these microbes have shaped human history. "Bacteria are amazing, overlooked, and misunderstood," asserts Warinner, who divides her time between the Max Planck Institute in Germany and Harvard University.

Section 1.1: The Heirloom Microbes Initiative

Launched in 2017, the Heirloom Microbes project focuses on identifying and preserving rare microbes, particularly those that convert lactose into lactic acid—crucial for making yogurt and cheese. The team aims to discern which microbes were specific to early dairy communities and how they migrated across regions.

Subsection 1.1.1: Analyzing Ancient Diets

Microbial analysis in Mongolia's dairy practices

By intertwining interests in ancient diets, cultural practices, and gut microbiomes, the project is forging a path to uncover the origins of dairying and its overlooked microbial influences on human culture. The team has gathered dairy samples from various global locations, including the European Alps and Jordan, but has placed a specific focus on Mongolia.

Section 1.2: Endangered Microbial Heritage

The team has realized that they may be documenting endangered microbes as traditional practices in Mongolia face the threat of industrialization. Warinner, who has been researching past diets for over a decade, discovered valuable information preserved in dental tartar, revealing individuals' diets and the microbes they carried.

Chapter 2: The Complexity of Lactose Digestion

The study of milk proteins and their historical significance has led to revelations about human diets. Notably, dairying was practiced for 4,000 years before the mutation enabling lactose digestion occurred.

The video "Yogurt: Add a Little Culture to Your Life | Hungry for Science" explores the cultural and health implications of yogurt consumption, emphasizing its role in various diets.

Despite the majority of the global population being lactose intolerant, Mongolia stands out with high dairy consumption, as 95% of its people cannot digest lactose. This paradox highlights the significance of fermented dairy products in the Mongolian diet, where traditional practices continue to thrive amidst modern challenges.

Warinner emphasizes that the very process of dairying is a remarkable feat of human ingenuity, yet the reasons behind its long-standing prevalence remain a puzzle. As microbes play a pivotal role in transforming milk into various dairy products, understanding this relationship is vital for preserving cultural heritage.

Section 2.1: The Role of Microbes in Dairying

Microbes are not just essential for dairy production; they also contribute to the health of those who consume these products. The traditional knowledge surrounding these microbes has been largely overlooked in Mongolia, where herders often equate bacteria solely with disease.

Through their research, Warinner and her team have sought to enlighten herders about the beneficial aspects of microbes in their dairy practices. They hope to preserve these traditional methods as industrial practices threaten to take root in Mongolia.

Section 2.2: Future Directions

The Heirloom Microbes project is now moving towards sampling the microbiomes of both nomadic herders and urban Mongolians to explore how traditional practices influence gut health. Research underscores the importance of the gut microbiome in overall health, linking it to various physiological and psychological aspects.

Mongolian researcher Soninkhishig Tsolmon has been documenting traditional diets for two decades, raising concerns about the erosion of these practices due to industrialization and climate change. Together, researchers and herders are working to preserve invaluable knowledge that connects food, health, and culture.

Through workshops and collaborative efforts, they aim to enhance awareness of the crucial role that microbial cultures play in nutrition and health, ensuring that these traditional practices are not lost to time.

In conclusion, the Heirloom Microbes project is not only a scientific endeavor but also a cultural preservation initiative. The insights gained from this research could serve to safeguard Mongolia's dairy heritage while promoting a deeper understanding of the integral role microbes play in human life.

Virginia Gewin is a science journalist based in Portland, Oregon. This article was republished on Discovermagazine.com.

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